Wednesday, Tina, Isha, Gerrit, and I had a great adventure! After our group seminar on Social Justice issues that our practicum placements are facing, we hoped into a cab to go to Thamel. Gerrit needed to pick up his camera from a camera repair shop he had visited the day before with the help of Gocool. We told the cab driver where we wanted to go and bargained our ride at Rs.150 (about $2). 15 minutes later we arrived at our destination, or so we thought. Once the cab drove away Gerrit realized that this was not the right place. We walked up the road, about half an hour, until we reached the Thamel Chowk. This is where we should've gotten out of the cab. Oh well. This was our first time back into the city after staying in our suburb for just over a week. In other words, it was our first time seeing other white people after a week. The first tourist I saw, actually shocked me! We then developed a game, it's sort of like punch buggy, but it's based on white people. It's a very amusing game! We also saw an anatomically correct baby boy doll sitting in one of the windows of a shop. Also, shocking. Gerrit's camera was fixed and we spent some time wandering around Thamel, doing some shopping. I found two gorgeous pashminas. Pashminas are actually, native to Nepal, and Nepal is fighting for the rights to the pashmina.I bought them each for Rs. 300....about $4.00. When it got dark, we decided to head home. We hailed a cab, bargained a Rs. 200 ride and headed back to Samakhushi Chowk, just as the nighttime monsoon hit. When we got out of the cab and looked around we realized that we were about 4 "blocks" from our street and then the additional 4 "blocks" from our house. So, we had to work our way through super muddy areas, with huge puddles, in the dark. By the time we reached home we were covered in mud and soaking wet. That's when we discovered that Gocool had invited some friends for dinner. We were definitely not dressed for the occasion.
Thursday was just like any other day, school, rest, Nepali lesson. We also had one on one check ins with Patti and Robin, which were rather pleasant and productive!
Friday there was a bandh (baan-duh). A bandh is a city wide strike that essentially shuts down everything. The goal is to stop traffic. This strike was called by the ethnic groups (which there are 62 of) of Nepal. The constitution of Nepal is supposed to be finalized by May 28th, and this is after the deadline has been pushed back multiple times. One of the pieces being discussed is whether or not to split up the country by provinces based on ethnic groups. The ethnic groups seem to want this, so they are calling this strike to put pressure on the constitution assembly to make this idea a reality. As well as, to put pressure on the constitution to be finished this time.
This meant that Friday was a really relaxed day. We got up and were served delicious banana pancakes that filled up your whole plate. Then, most people napped and relaxed. Then, after a few hours, the group as a whole went for a walk aroudn the neighbourhood. The streets were quiet, only a few motorcycles were along ring road. Earlier that day, Gerrit saw a truck full of police sitting with guns watching everyone. I think it may have been a preventative measure against riots. Some shops in Samakhushi were still open, but the schools were not! After our walk around people did homework and slept. I prepared for our evening gathering. That evening we had a Children's Song and Games Talent Show, hosted by ME! Everyone signed up for the talent show in the week before hand. That night I dressed up as an undercover member of the Superstar Canadian Practicum Placement group. And said that we had decided that everyone needed to brush up on our songs and games to play with children. It was very fun! I had a t-shirt on that had duct tape writing saying: SCPP on the front and McCONNELL, CC (for camosun college), Nepal 2011 on the back. I had to hide on the roof behind the water tanks to make that shirt so nobody would catch me. I also wore sunglasses and a canadian bandana the entire time. At the end, I rewarded everyone with a Certificate of graduation of the SCPP program. Essentially, I ran a campfire on the roof of a house in the middle of Samakhushi, Kathmandu, Nepal.
Today, we had another Thamel adventure. This time, the whole group went. We left right after breakfast, at 9 am. I stuck with Tina and Isha for the day. We did some shopping, and then found real coffee. I had Nepali Tea, but the the other ladies had coffee. It was on this beautiful rooftop terrace looking over Thamel. And the building was unreal, there was a marble staircase, two kitchens, and beautiful furniture and decorations, much different than anything else we've seen. We continued with our shopping for another couple of hours when we decided to stop for lunch. We splurged and went to a place called the Roadhouse. Again, we had delicious coffee and lots of water. I had a veg burrito and Tina + Isha had chicken caesar wraps. Yum! We did our final bits of shopping and headed to our designated meeting place of the Pilgrim Bookstore. It is the best bookstore ever (I guess that's why it's world famous). I bought a lot of stuff there. I bought an amazing cookbook, so expect some Nepali delights upon my return, as well as some spices, and other gifts. I'm most excited about the cookbook as it teaches you how to make everything from samosas and momos to chiya and roti. I can't wait to test these recipes out in my own kitchen!
Speaking of good food, on Wednesday morning, we had a chickpea curry with this delicious deep fried bread. I think I found the recipe in my recipe book, so I hope to have some guinea pigs to test it on upon my return! (I doubt that'll be too much of a challenge.)
As we walked through Thamel many people asked our story. As soon as they realized that we were living here for a while, and working in the schools, we were treated like locals. Many places cut us deals that they weren't giving to other tourists, and the whole tone of the interaction changed. It was quite lovely. The only thing that didn't change was the attitude of the wandering salesmen, who leered at us and then tried to sell us tiger balm.
At 4 we planned to all meet up as a group outside the Pilgrim Bookstore. When we met Isha, Tina, Gerrit, and I were talking to a Nepali man. Moments later a car (taxi style) drove onto the end of the street and started making an announcement in Nepali from the loudspeaker on top (think Blues Brothers style). Our friend explained that it was calling a strike for Sunday. Sunday, is a working day in Nepal. What was interesting was that everyone stopped what they were doing. The streets filled with people instantly, and people started to run towards the car as it progressed down our street. We decided that before any sort of riot or massive event happened, that we should probably skidaddle. We hurried in the opposite direction, hoped in cabs and headed back home. What I found to be amazing was how soo many people were enthusiastic about getting involved in the politics. I can't imagine a car announcing a political rally driving down the street in Victoria and watching as everyone poured out of shops, and business stopped. People in Victoria seem quite apathetic in comparison to the Nepali people. It is amazing to see this sort of energy and commitment to politics. It's nothing like I've every experienced before.
Unfortunately, this strike may impact our ability to go to Gocool's village. It's a 3 hour drive to the village, and if there's a strike we may not be able to go. Strikes are not supposed to influence tourism, but depending on the size of the strike it may be impossible to travel. Sometimes burning logs fill the streets, preventing passage, sometimes armed guards stand in the streets, or sometimes it's just understood that you don't travel on these days. I guess we'll have to wait for Gocool's word on what is the safest way to continue.
The nice thing about not being in Thamel anymore, is that I don't have to put up with the wandering salesmen, or put up with seeing scantil clad tourists behaving in culturally inappropriate ways. (I think living in a suburb is getting to me.)
2 weeks in and still loving it, can't wait to share pictures and good food with you all.
Namaste
P.S. I now know the nepali alphabet, and how to write "my name is steph" in the nepali writing. Also, I've noticed that I tend to speak in the broken english that I hear everyday...I figure that the more I speak english like the Nepali, the sooner I'll speak nepali like the nepali people.
P.P.S. A conversation just before we left the house:
Steph: Sniff sniff?
Sarah: Burning garbage?
Steph: Doesn't it smell like pot? Or is that just me?
Tina: Burning garbage on a pot plant?
Steph: Ahhh, that's so kathmandu.
Thursday was just like any other day, school, rest, Nepali lesson. We also had one on one check ins with Patti and Robin, which were rather pleasant and productive!
Friday there was a bandh (baan-duh). A bandh is a city wide strike that essentially shuts down everything. The goal is to stop traffic. This strike was called by the ethnic groups (which there are 62 of) of Nepal. The constitution of Nepal is supposed to be finalized by May 28th, and this is after the deadline has been pushed back multiple times. One of the pieces being discussed is whether or not to split up the country by provinces based on ethnic groups. The ethnic groups seem to want this, so they are calling this strike to put pressure on the constitution assembly to make this idea a reality. As well as, to put pressure on the constitution to be finished this time.
This meant that Friday was a really relaxed day. We got up and were served delicious banana pancakes that filled up your whole plate. Then, most people napped and relaxed. Then, after a few hours, the group as a whole went for a walk aroudn the neighbourhood. The streets were quiet, only a few motorcycles were along ring road. Earlier that day, Gerrit saw a truck full of police sitting with guns watching everyone. I think it may have been a preventative measure against riots. Some shops in Samakhushi were still open, but the schools were not! After our walk around people did homework and slept. I prepared for our evening gathering. That evening we had a Children's Song and Games Talent Show, hosted by ME! Everyone signed up for the talent show in the week before hand. That night I dressed up as an undercover member of the Superstar Canadian Practicum Placement group. And said that we had decided that everyone needed to brush up on our songs and games to play with children. It was very fun! I had a t-shirt on that had duct tape writing saying: SCPP on the front and McCONNELL, CC (for camosun college), Nepal 2011 on the back. I had to hide on the roof behind the water tanks to make that shirt so nobody would catch me. I also wore sunglasses and a canadian bandana the entire time. At the end, I rewarded everyone with a Certificate of graduation of the SCPP program. Essentially, I ran a campfire on the roof of a house in the middle of Samakhushi, Kathmandu, Nepal.
Today, we had another Thamel adventure. This time, the whole group went. We left right after breakfast, at 9 am. I stuck with Tina and Isha for the day. We did some shopping, and then found real coffee. I had Nepali Tea, but the the other ladies had coffee. It was on this beautiful rooftop terrace looking over Thamel. And the building was unreal, there was a marble staircase, two kitchens, and beautiful furniture and decorations, much different than anything else we've seen. We continued with our shopping for another couple of hours when we decided to stop for lunch. We splurged and went to a place called the Roadhouse. Again, we had delicious coffee and lots of water. I had a veg burrito and Tina + Isha had chicken caesar wraps. Yum! We did our final bits of shopping and headed to our designated meeting place of the Pilgrim Bookstore. It is the best bookstore ever (I guess that's why it's world famous). I bought a lot of stuff there. I bought an amazing cookbook, so expect some Nepali delights upon my return, as well as some spices, and other gifts. I'm most excited about the cookbook as it teaches you how to make everything from samosas and momos to chiya and roti. I can't wait to test these recipes out in my own kitchen!
Speaking of good food, on Wednesday morning, we had a chickpea curry with this delicious deep fried bread. I think I found the recipe in my recipe book, so I hope to have some guinea pigs to test it on upon my return! (I doubt that'll be too much of a challenge.)
As we walked through Thamel many people asked our story. As soon as they realized that we were living here for a while, and working in the schools, we were treated like locals. Many places cut us deals that they weren't giving to other tourists, and the whole tone of the interaction changed. It was quite lovely. The only thing that didn't change was the attitude of the wandering salesmen, who leered at us and then tried to sell us tiger balm.
At 4 we planned to all meet up as a group outside the Pilgrim Bookstore. When we met Isha, Tina, Gerrit, and I were talking to a Nepali man. Moments later a car (taxi style) drove onto the end of the street and started making an announcement in Nepali from the loudspeaker on top (think Blues Brothers style). Our friend explained that it was calling a strike for Sunday. Sunday, is a working day in Nepal. What was interesting was that everyone stopped what they were doing. The streets filled with people instantly, and people started to run towards the car as it progressed down our street. We decided that before any sort of riot or massive event happened, that we should probably skidaddle. We hurried in the opposite direction, hoped in cabs and headed back home. What I found to be amazing was how soo many people were enthusiastic about getting involved in the politics. I can't imagine a car announcing a political rally driving down the street in Victoria and watching as everyone poured out of shops, and business stopped. People in Victoria seem quite apathetic in comparison to the Nepali people. It is amazing to see this sort of energy and commitment to politics. It's nothing like I've every experienced before.
Unfortunately, this strike may impact our ability to go to Gocool's village. It's a 3 hour drive to the village, and if there's a strike we may not be able to go. Strikes are not supposed to influence tourism, but depending on the size of the strike it may be impossible to travel. Sometimes burning logs fill the streets, preventing passage, sometimes armed guards stand in the streets, or sometimes it's just understood that you don't travel on these days. I guess we'll have to wait for Gocool's word on what is the safest way to continue.
The nice thing about not being in Thamel anymore, is that I don't have to put up with the wandering salesmen, or put up with seeing scantil clad tourists behaving in culturally inappropriate ways. (I think living in a suburb is getting to me.)
2 weeks in and still loving it, can't wait to share pictures and good food with you all.
Namaste
P.S. I now know the nepali alphabet, and how to write "my name is steph" in the nepali writing. Also, I've noticed that I tend to speak in the broken english that I hear everyday...I figure that the more I speak english like the Nepali, the sooner I'll speak nepali like the nepali people.
P.P.S. A conversation just before we left the house:
Steph: Sniff sniff?
Sarah: Burning garbage?
Steph: Doesn't it smell like pot? Or is that just me?
Tina: Burning garbage on a pot plant?
Steph: Ahhh, that's so kathmandu.
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